Paul was one of
the best hands I’ve ever had the pleasure of sailing with. He knew what he was doing and possessed boundless
energy. Sadly, a couple of years back he was lost overboard while sailing the Indian Ocean in his steel schooner.
On one of our
voyages, Paul and I were about two hours out of Antigua
after a trans-Atlantic crossing when he produced a surprise bottle of champagne
to celebrate the completion of the voyage. “Might be a little warm,” he
cautioned, “but it’s be wet.”
Paul* |
The thought of
warm champagne brought to mind something my father had once told me: He’d been
stationed in Borneo during WW2 and had not
always enjoyed the luxury of refrigeration. When he and his mates wanted cold
beer they would put the bottles in a sack, hang it from a tree and dribble
gasoline over it. The evaporation, Dad claimed, cooled the grog to a surprising
degree.
When I
mentioned this to Paul, his eyes lit up and he darted below, returning shortly with
an old pair of jeans and the sewing kit. In no time at all, he’d whipped up a
bag from a severed leg of the jeans, stuck the champagne in it and hung it from
the boom. Above this, he suspended a plastic bottle of alcohol (from the stove),
the bottom of which he’d punctured.
In the twenty
minutes it took for the alcohol to drip from the bottle, our champagne had
cooled to the point that the outside of the glass was frosted. Inside was
superb.
That was
Paul—constantly looking for a challenging project. He was also extremely
competitive:
I think it was
around 1990 when I purchased a 33ft. Moody in Mallorca, Spain, and Paul volunteered to assist in sailing her to Gibraltar .
We had a good nor-wester of around fifteen knots to skim us past Ibiza , but after that the winds turned fluky and our speed
dropped to around four knots. But we were basically headed in the right
direction.
At the time, Paul
and I were purists who frowned upon the use of any navigational device other
than a sextant. I can’t recall whether this attitude was of a philosophical
nature or came about due to Paul’s mistrust of Russians. He was born in Hungary and
had fled his country some time after the Soviets invaded it in 1956. I seem to recall him
worrying that if we came to rely on GPS for navigation and the Russians gained
control of the satellite system they’d perhaps send us crashing into uncharted Russian
rocks.
At the time of
the Majorca voyage, neither of us had done any
sailing for a couple of years and were both kind of hesitant to go through the
process of re-learning the sextant. You get rusty quickly when you’re not using
the instrument on a regular basis.
We knew roughly
where we were—or thought we did—so I wasn’t overly concerned about hitting any
chunks of land. I’d been hoping to spot a lighthouse or pick up the mainland
Spanish coast and just follow it to Gibraltar ,
but this wasn’t to be. Two and a half days past Ibiza ,
there’d been no sign of either light or land.
It was
mid-afternoon of a hazy day when I figured it was time to take a fix with the
sextant. Paul saw what I was doing and instantly came alive—fired with the promise
of competition. “I’ll grab my sextant and we’ll see who gets the best
position,” he joyfully announced.
So there we
were, the two of us perched on the coach-roof peering through our eye-pieces at
a hazy sun, scribbling down readings and times in our respective notebooks. I
swear Paul was shielding his book with a hand lest I sneak a peek and copy his
results.
Paul finished
his sights first and with a triumphant bray, headed below for the almanac and
mathematical tables to plot our position. He’d managed to turn the exercise
into a race as well.
Leaving the
wind-vane steering to keep us on course, the two of us sat at the saloon table
working frantically on our figures. Again, Paul beat me. After close to an hour
(remember, we were both out of practice), he let out another triumphant bark
and grabbed the chart.
But somewhere along the line he’d erred. According to his plot we were a few miles off New York.
I was closer. I
had us in Portugal .
And when I say in I mean about twenty miles inland from Lisbon ! Back to the almanac and tables.
Caught up in
our competition, we’d kind of forgotten that we were sailing in an area where
we might expect to encounter other vessels. Occasionally one of us would poke
his head out the hatch, take a cursory glance around, then race back to his calculations. It was not what you’d call keeping a proper watch.
I was first to
recalculate my position line and plot it on the chart. “Holy shit,” I
exclaimed, racing for the hatchway. The haze had lifted a little to reveal,
some five hundred yards in front of us, a beach packed with tourists.
And in our wake
was a clustered group of small fishing boats. We’d managed to sail right
through the middle of them. What a strange sight we must have presented to those
fishermen—an apparently unmanned vessel cleaving blithely through their fleet.
*Paul worried that the Russians would drag him back to Hungary--maybe.
( Edited by Davina Chapman)
No comments:
Post a Comment
Let me hear from you.